The Victorian revolution in St Leonard’s

According to Robert Newton, author of the book “Victorian Exeter”, 1850 was a turning point in the history of the city of Exeter.  His book examines the economic, social and political development of the city from the 1830s to the turn of the century.  He found several reasons for the importance of the year, and drew attention to one particular event as crucial to the revolution.

And it happened in St Leonard’s.  Our revolution was not a violent one, although some blood was shed.  In July 1850, the Royal Agricultural Society of Great Britain held its annual show in our neighbourhood.  At the time, St Leonard’s was growing as a desirable place to live, but there were still many fields, smallholdings, nurseries and small estates around the large houses.  The Society showground was on a field bounded by Matford Lane to the west, and Wonford Road to the north; both these roads existed at the time.  The southern boundary was the edge of the Coaver estate, roughly where there is now an access road to County Hall from Matford Lane, and extended to the line of the road into Deepdene Park.  At the time this was a field called “Sixteen Acres”.  Later in the 19th century it was referred to as Matford Field.  Today, Matford Road and Matford Avenue occupy the field.  For centuries, this area was in Heavitree parish.  Changes to the parish boundaries were made in the 19th century to bring it into St Leonard’s parish. 

Holding a national agricultural show in Exeter seems to have been an important element in Exeter’s transition from a small provincial town to a city of national importance.  The city was on the map.  People travelled to Exeter from all over the country to attend and to display both their animals and their inventions.  The weekly newspaper, the Exeter Flying Post, issued a special supplement for the show, which listed many important visitors and where they were staying.  With a view to publicity, the newspaper could be sent to anywhere in the country in exchange for five postage stamps (5 old pence).  The Illustrated London News, which circulated across the empire, reported the event with a fanciful picture of a farm worker silhouetted against a vista of the city, alongside portraits of the prize bulls, and a sketch of one of the celebration arches put up in the city to welcome visitors. 

From the "Illustrated London News"

In the previous decade, communications between Exeter and the rest of the country had improved enormously.  The railway had reached Exeter, and in 1850 the first excursion train came to the city.  The city’s economy was changing too, with councillors who were committed to putting Exeter onto the national stage, and developing industries such as papermaking and iron foundries.  Piped water had come to the neighbourhood in 1833, followed by gas three years later, and improved sewage in the 1840s. 

The displays of agricultural equipment on the Matford Lane site were a foretaste of the show in the Great Exhibition in Hyde Park the following year.  New designs of mass-produced plough featured in the sixteen sheds of implements; numerous steam engines were displayed, ready to be connected to the latest designs of farmers’ machinery.  Show animals came from all over England for the event, and there were fourteen sheds for them, each about 250 feet long.  For the intellectual visitors, Professor Simonds of the Royal Veterinary College gave a lecture on “The Structure, Functions and Diseases of the Liver in Domesticated Animals”.  Gripping stuff!

The journal of the RAS included a report on the Exeter show, including this splendid device used for testing threshing machines.  (Every home should have one!)

 If that was not of interest to you, there were other events in St Leonard’s to delight the visitor.  The Veitch nurseries, further east along Wonford Road, were open to visitors from 6am to 6pm every day.  In a field opposite Parker’s Well House (presumably on the Royal Academy for the Deaf site), there was a circus all week.  The Grand American Circus boasted an Equestrian Troupe of Ladies; tickets were 2 shillings for first class seats, 1 shilling for second class tickets, and 6 pence for a promenade ticket.  Children were half price for the seats.  The grounds of Mount Radford House were open to visitors as well, since the Devon and Exeter Botanical and Horticultural Society was staging an “Extra Grand Horticultural Fete”.  This would cost you a little more than the circus, at half-a-crown for adults.  (The organisers drew attention to the fact that there was special provision for carriages.)  Tickets for the Grand Agricultural Ball cost a tear-jerking eight shillings each.

More ominously, the newspaper reported that a “swell mob” of criminals was expected to descend on Exeter for the show – so a crack squad of policemen came from London to deal with the potential problem.

Robert Newton claimed that from 1850 onwards, Exeter’s status in the United Kingdom started to improve.  We in the neighbourhood can be proud that we hosted the revolution which contributed to this.  It was almost bloodless; the only blood which was shed was of farm animals, sold to Exeter butchers.

Print of the prize-winning cattle at the show (Illustrated London News)

Today there is no trace of the show.  The temporary half-mile long boundary fence was quickly taken down, along with thirty sheds and other buildings, and the field returned to pasture.  Fifty years later, new roads were made, the first seven houses were erected on the field, five of which still stand (two were destroyed in 1942), and others have been added since.  In 2008 it was added to the conservation area.  But there is still an open space used by the 1850 show for you and I to enjoy.  It is a corner of the County Hall campus in the corner of Matford Land and Matford Avenue.  There’s a notice to ban “organised ball games”, but nothing banning an agricultural show.  Now, I wonder …!

In the Neighbourhood News, Jan-Feb2015

Addition in January 2017
I have just come across "Putting on a show: the Royal Agricultural Society of England and the Victorian town,c.1840–1876" by Louise Miskell in Agricultural History Review vol 60 pages 37-59

This refers to the Exeter show in several places: she writes: "When Exeter was overlooked in favour of Plymouth in 1865 it was a snub that still rankled, even ten years later when it was recalled that the decision had been arrived at, ‘notwithstanding all that could be urged in favour of the unmistakable and unchallengeable claims of the Cathedral city of the Diocese’. (quoting from Trewman’s Exeter Flying Post, 14 July 1875

There was also controversy about mixing politics with the agricultural show.  "At Exeter in 1850, for example, the organization of a ‘political and Protectionist dinner’ during show week invoked  disapproval in the liberal London press. The Morning Chronicle’s correspondent noted that, ‘Any event which would have the effect of mixing up a purely agricultural society with party politics is, in the opinion of the principal members of the Royal Agricultural Society, much to be deplored’. The editors of the Mark Lane Express, in contrast, gave generous coverage to the ‘Grand Protectionist Banquet at  Exeter’ and to the anti-Free Trade rhetoric of the speakers in its special supplement, published to cover the events of the Exeter show."

She also gives some statistics about the show: It cost the RAS £6570 to put on the show in Exeter, and receipts were £4941, meaning a loss of £1629.  A total of  1223 implements and 619 livestock were exhibited; sadly, her sources did not give the attendance figures

 

Magdalen Road Christmas Fair, 2013

Pictures from the Christmas Fair on December 7th 2013

This work is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NoDerivatives 4.0 International License.

The east end of the road, just as dusk was falling.

Hot mussels for sale

Stalls on the green

If you look closely, there are lights in the trees.

Buy the materials to make a wreath

Exeter Brewery

More stalls

Rides in a teacup

The west end of the fair, by Denmark Road

Candy-floss

Cafe 55 run be the charity Sense

Yet more stalls

An A Capella group from the University of Exeter

Sample Norcotts cider from (on top of) the barrel

Outside Bon Gout delicatessen

Christmas decorations

Pipers Farm during a gap in their sales

Devon and Cornwall police pipe and drums band.  Unfortunately, their high visibility stripes showed up in the flash of the camera

Good Game stall

Roundabout and roundabout, and roundabout we go

Crowds in the road, admiring the lights and stalls

Devon and Cornwall police pipe and drums band

Devon and Cornwall police pipe and drums band

Lights in the trees

A gap in the crowds; you had to be a patient photographer for this moment

A gap in the crowds; you had to be a patient photographer for this moment

Looking down the street

The Holly and the Ivy

Have you ever looked at …

… the holly and the ivy in St Leonard’s?

“The Holly and the Ivy” must be one of the odder Christmas carols.  After the first line, ivy is only mentioned once, in the final verse.  All the rest of the carol is about the symbolism of different parts of the holly, its flower, berry, leaf and bark.  Each one is linked to part of the Christian message.  So it is sung at Christmas, to remind the singers that Jesus was born to be Saviour and Redeemer.

Around St Leonard’s, both holly and ivy grow in profusion.  It is easy to take them both for granted, but this is the time of year to notice their greenery, when many of our other trees and shrubs are bare.  It is partly because these two plants are evergreen that they are so widely used as decorations at Christmas.  Pagans may claim that such decoration is a reminder of the prospect of new life, and this is a message that has been renewed and developed by Christians over the centuries.  So ivy has become a symbol of Christ’s resurrection.

For many people, however, ivy is a weed, a plant that grows where it shouldn’t.  It clings to our trees and walls, or spreads over the soil in places we find hard to reach.  There are plenty of examples of common ivy, the wild plant, throughout the neighbourhood, spilling over walls towards the pavement or road..  On the other hand, for many local gardeners, ivy is a plant to cultivate and encourage.  There are hundreds of varieties to choose from; you can select those which are more effective than common ivy at ground cover, because they form a dense mat which smothers less desirable plants.  Alternatively, it is a useful evergreen to use as a climbing plant, on a trellis, with another plant, or to add colour as it climbs a tree trunk.  Some varieties have been developed as houseplants, and a pyramid of a small-leaf form of ivy is a very attractive room decoration – I have even seen it used as a miniature Christmas tree.  (In Exeter Crematorium, part of the permanent decoration is in the form of silk ivy leaves.)  Or you can choose one with attractive leaves, such as those with variegated colour, yellow edges or yellow centres.  Some have prominent veins on their leaves.  Others are chosen for the colour of their stems – purple being one of the widest available.  And the shape of the leaves differs from variety to variety, with some heart-shaped, and others with pronounced “fingers” to their leaves. 

If you keep your eyes open as you walk around the neighbourhood, you will discover some of these “garden” varieties of ivy.  I’m not going to embarrass the gardeners by pointing you to specific houses to find this wonderful range of our evergreen; instead, I suggest that you find a frond of ivy, pick off one leaf, and then compare it with other leaves as you walk on.  Even in the length of St Leonard’s Road, you will find several different ivies.

In the language of flowers, ivy stands for friendship, fidelity, and marriage; the pre-Raphaelite painters (among others) included ivy as these symbols in their art.  But a wider use of ivy in art dates back to Greek and Roman times when Pan or Bacchus were decorated with garlands of ivy, as were their maiden attendants. 

However, garlands of holly would be somewhat less comfortable to wear.  Like ivy, there are numerous varieties of holly, and the temperate climate of Britain means that we can grow members of the holly family from other parts of the world.  Many ornamental hollies are the result of crosses with a holly from the Canaries.  Despite the prickles on their leaves, holly is used in many hedges around the neighbourhood.  It grows quite slowly, so can be kept under control before those spines do damage to passers-by.  There is a stretch of holly hedge outside the Mardon Centre in Wonford Road, and several houses in St Leonard’s Road have short lengths of holly hedge alongside the pavement.  One curious feature of holly: the plants are dioecious; they require separate male and female plants in order for pollination to occur.  So it is to the advantage of gardeners to have other bushes and hedges nearby.  It is (generally) the female plant that carries the berries.

Like ivy, selective breeding has produced plants with a variety of leaf shapes, sizes and colours.  Some varieties come with both male and female forms, such as “China Boy” and “China Girl”, but growers joke that Golden King is female and Golden Queen is male. 

Besides the hedges of holly, the neighbourhood has several mature holly trees.  There are four very fine ornamental holly trees outside the door of the Coaver Club at County Hall, and another is close to the ceremonial gateway near Parkers Well.  Others can be found if you look up as you walk through our local streets.  Look out for the coloured leaves, and don’t forget that many holly trees have spineless leaves from six or seven feet above the ground, where grazing animals could not reach them.

Silver edges to the leaves of this holly at the Coaver Club

Gold edges to the leaves of this holly at the Coaver Club

And I wonder how many Christmas cards you will receive showing holly, ivy, or both this year.

(Neighbourhood News, November-December 2013)

Walls again

The first post in this series was about walls.  Here are two pictures of stone walls in the neighbourhood, one well repaired, the other not so well repaired.

This wall has some sandstone (Heavitree stone) and therefore has been repaired with lime mortar, which is porous.  The mortar supports some vegetation

The wall has blocks of sandstone and has been repaired with a hard mortar (almost concrete) which is not porous.  With weathering (especially water) the stone has been worn away and the hard material left proud of the surface.  In turn this traps the water and further erodes the stone.  This mortar is devoid of vegetation.

A strange window

If you have been reading this blog, you will know that I have encouraged all the readers to look at their surroundings.  And I do that myself.  So when I spotted this window, not in Exeter, but in our neighbouring town of Dawlish, I thought that I would share it in the blog.

It's a straight-sided bay window, but look at the decoration!  Fancy brickwork in the frieze, which has been picked out in paint; then the ornate top and bottom of the columns that define the corners of the bay.  But the most amazing pieces of the window are the circlets around each pilaster.  From what era of architecture did the inspiration for these come?

And how wonderful that successive owners of the property have maintained such a whimsical design!

The estate agent's descriptions

Those of us who live in St Leonard's know that we are very fortunate; it is a very pleasant place to live.  So it is not surprising that estate agents promote the area when they are selling houses.  In several parts of the neighbourhood, of course, many houses sell quickly, and don't need much promotional language from the agent.  (And perhaps the houses which do not sell are priced too high?)

However, it is amusing to see what language appears in advertisements about houses described as "St Leonard's" (with or without the apostrophe).

• "this highly sought after residential location", 
• "highly desirable St Leonards location", 
• "walking distance of the city centre and the quay", 
• "highly desirable location",
• "close to excellent local amenities, hospitals and the city centre", 
• "occopying [sic] a highly prestigious residential location within the ever-popular residential area of St Leonards", 
• "in the sought after St Leonards area", 
• "an elegant crescent in St Leonards", 
• "superbly located in prestige location", 
• "the exclusive St Leonards area of central Exeter", 
• "the most desirable area of Exeter", 
• "the most prestigious area of St Leonards, Exeter", 
• "the highly desirable area of St Leonards", 
• "in one of the most sought after roads in St Leonards"

But my favourite this week is:

• "Set amidst the grand avenues of Exeter's premier residential district".

Don't the words "grand avenues" conjure up visions of French boulevards?

In July 2014, we were encouraged to know that there were "tree-lined terraces" in St Leonard's

The (almost) last word

Have you ever noticed?

The title for this, my final article, is a little different.  Instead of asking if you have ever looked at things, I want to bring together a few oddments that didn’t fit into the categories of the set of articles.

Trees:  Although there are many fine trees in St Leonard’s, we should praise the city council for the beautiful line of maples in Denmark Road by the swimming pool.  At the other end of the neighbourhood in Wonford Road there is a monkey puzzle which is hemmed in by other tall trees, and another can be seen across the river near the allotments.  The Veitch nurseries were in Gras Lawn, and they popularised monkey puzzle trees for rich Victorian land-owners (including the avenue at Bicton College). 

Stones:  In the article that I wrote for the last issue (Nov-Dec 2012) I asked about the stones which face the terrace in Barnfield Road and the front walls of the houses.  Thanks to an interested reader, I discovered that they are part of our city’s history, as these stones came from the second Exe Bridge.  This was built in 1778 and was demolished in 1903.  The building firm of Woodmans built the terrace, and bought the stonework when the bridge was taken down to make way for one which was flat enough for trams to use. 

In an earlier article, I wrote about the granite kerbstones and setts at the edge of some roads, as well as the carved markings in some of them.  You can deduce when some of our local roads were developed by looking at the kerbstones.  The newest roads have concrete kerbstones; older ones have narrow stones, and some of the oldest ones have quite wide stone kerbs.  Even when the kerbs have been lifted and relaid, the stonework remains.  In the developments that date from between the wars, there are stone setts in the road opposite the shared drives.  The craftsmen who laid the kerbs took pride in shaping stones into curves at junctions and bends - concrete kerbs are less imaginative.  I have also noticed unusual dropped kerbstones in Spicer Road and Rivermead Road at house entrances which have been cut with grooves to give better traction.  And in the parts of the gutters of Lyndhurst Road and Fairpark Road, there are slates instead of the local granite.

A different kind of stone is to be found on a few street corners.  These are the conical stones built into the corner of a wall to protest that corner from cartwheels.  If a wheel came too close, the hard, shaped stone would force it away from the wall.  Look for one in Radnor Place.

House and other walls:  the terrace of houses at the southern end of Marlborough Road was originally called Queen’s Terrace.  There is a space on the wall where the name-plate used to be.  In Barnfield Road there is a house with a Jack in the Green; there are roses on the east side of the Lord Mamhead flats – just visible from the gateway.  And, don’t forget the demon which broods over the bottom of Holloway Street, the imposing number 3 on the wall over the toilets on the Quay and the date 1878 on the wall of the Antiques Centre on the Quay

There’s a lion in Manston Terrace (in a garden not on a wall) and a fan-tailed pigeon on a gatepost in West Grove Road, and a gate with spider and web in Baring Crescent.  Someone asked about the rabbit between the eagles on two houses in Wonford Road.  It turns out to be a recent addition, as it does not appear in the photograph in the Civic Society’s book about St Leonard’s.  There are two similar eagles on a pair of houses in Salutary Mount, Heavitree

Inscriptions Have you noticed that there are the names of the maker on some lamp-posts.  There are several which have the inscription “ …. Engineers, Exeter”

And in this month of the RSPB’s Great Garden Birdwatch: have you looked at …our fellow inhabitants?

I was glad when “Home Information Packs” ceased to be required by sellers of houses.  Not, I hasten to say, for political reasons, and only partially for financial reasons, but because the packs didn’t describe a home.  They were about the dwelling, the house, the flat, and not about the home. 

Now, suppose you were creating a real information pack about your home.  It could make an interesting story, as you interwove the story of your life and your family’s adventures with the way that it was affected by the place where you live.  What stories would you tell? 

A Home Information Pack really should mention the creatures that share our neighbourhood.  What would you include for your home? 

During last summer, I read the remarkable book, “Wildlife of a Garden” by Jennifer Owen.  For thirty years, she monitored the birds, animals, insects etc that shared her garden in Leicester.  The list went on and on.  She was a biologist, and had access to specialists who could identify what she found and collected.  The book reveals the range of creatures who share a suburban garden, many of which are easily overlooked. 

So instead of telling you what you might see, why not investigate for yourself, looking at birds, butterflies, moths, animals and insects.  The results will surprise you!

A second book from my recent reading list would make a good present for anyone interested in wildlife.  Stephen Moss’ “Wild Hares and Hummingbirds” is a diary of a year looking at the wildlife of a village in Somerset, seen through the eyes of one  of the BBC’s Springwatch producers

Thank you

Thank you to the many people who have commented on these articles.  I have included some of your comments in my pieces.  However, I refused to write one article.  Someone asked me to write “Have you ever looked at … eyesores in the neighbourhood?”

Meanwhile, I hope that some of the readers of the Neighbourhood News are going to look at their surroundings with fresh eyes.  (And perhaps, when you are visiting other parts of the city, or going further afield.)  Please let me know of anything in the future that you see which catches your interest.

In the St Leonard's Neighbourhood News for January-February 2013

postscript: As many readers will know, I returned from exile to write further columns for the Neighbourhood News.  These can be found in the blog.